The Complete Skincare Routine Order: How to Layer Products

January 5, 2026

The General Rule

Apply products from thinnest to thickest consistency, and from lowest to highest pH. Water-based products go before oil-based products. Active ingredients go on clean skin before moisturizer (with some exceptions for buffering retinoids).

The rationale: thin, water-based products need to contact the skin to absorb. If you apply an oil or cream first, it creates a barrier that prevents water-based actives from reaching the skin.

Morning Routine

1. Cleanser (gentle, low-pH) or just water rinse 2. Vitamin C serum (L-Ascorbic Acid — needs to go on clean, dry skin at low pH) 3. Water-based serums (hyaluronic acid, niacinamide) 4. Moisturizer 5. Sunscreen (SPF 30+, the most important step)

Note: If you are using a vitamin C serum, apply it before any other serums — it needs direct skin contact and low pH to penetrate. Wait 1-2 minutes before the next step.

Evening Routine

1. First cleanse (oil cleanser or micellar water — removes sunscreen/makeup) 2. Second cleanse (water-based cleanser) 3. Exfoliant (AHA/BHA — if using, skip on retinoid nights) 4. Treatment serums (arbutin, tranexamic acid, niacinamide) 5. Retinoid (tretinoin, retinol, or adapalene) 6. Moisturizer (ceramide-based for barrier support) 7. Occlusive (optional — petrolatum or squalane to seal everything in)

Key rules: Do not use AHA/BHA and retinoids on the same night (too irritating). Alternate nights or use acids in the morning. Apply retinoids to dry skin — wet skin increases penetration and irritation.

Related Ingredients

Hyaluronic Acid

The most popular hydrating ingredient in skincare. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan naturally produced by the body that can hold up to 1,000x its weight in water. In skincare, different molecular weights serve different functions: high molecular weight HA sits on the skin surface forming a moisture barrier, while low molecular weight HA penetrates deeper layers for plumping hydration.

Niacinamide

A true multitasker — niacinamide (vitamin B3) addresses almost every skin concern simultaneously. It strengthens the skin barrier by boosting ceramide production, reduces hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanosome transfer, controls sebum production, minimizes pore appearance, reduces redness, and has anti-aging benefits. One of the most versatile and well-tolerated actives in skincare.

Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid)

The most potent topical antioxidant with strong clinical evidence for brightening, anti-aging, and photoprotection. L-Ascorbic Acid is the pure, active form that directly neutralizes free radicals, inhibits melanin production, and stimulates collagen synthesis. The challenge is formulation — it is notoriously unstable and must be at low pH (2.5-3.5) for skin penetration, which can cause irritation.

Tretinoin

The gold standard anti-aging ingredient with the most clinical evidence of any topical. Tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid) is the active form of vitamin A that directly binds to retinoic acid receptors in skin cells. It accelerates cell turnover, stimulates collagen synthesis, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, fades hyperpigmentation, and improves skin texture. Prescription-only in most countries.

Ceramides

Lipids that make up approximately 50% of the skin barrier by weight. Ceramides form the 'mortar' between skin cells (the 'bricks'), creating a waterproof barrier that prevents water loss and keeps irritants out. When the skin barrier is damaged — from over-exfoliation, harsh cleansers, retinoid use, or conditions like eczema — ceramide levels are depleted, and replenishing them is essential for recovery.