Hydration Ingredients
22Skin hydration works through two mechanisms: humectants draw water into the skin (hyaluronic acid, glycerin), while occlusives prevent water loss (squalane, petrolatum). A complete hydration strategy includes both. The skin barrier determines how well your skin retains the moisture these ingredients provide.
Allantoin
A gentle compound found naturally in comfrey root, chamomile, and wheat sprouts that promotes skin healing, moisturization, and the shedding of dead skin cells. Allantoin has been used in dermatology for over 70 years and is one of the most universally tolerated ingredients — it soothes, protects, and promotes recovery without any known irritation potential. Found in everything from diaper cream to post-procedure products.
Allantoin
A gentle, non-irritating compound found in comfrey root, chamomile, and wheat sprouts that promotes cell regeneration and has keratolytic and soothing properties. Allantoin is one of the most universally well-tolerated skincare ingredients — it is used in products for newborn babies, post-surgical care, and extremely reactive skin. It softens keratin, promotes wound healing, and reduces irritation from other active ingredients.
Aloe Vera
One of the oldest and most recognized soothing ingredients, used for millennia for burns, wounds, and skin irritation. Aloe vera gel contains over 75 active compounds including polysaccharides, vitamins, minerals, and enzymes. It provides immediate cooling, hydration, and anti-inflammatory relief. The evidence is strongest for wound healing, sunburn recovery, and moisturization.
Aloe Vera
The gel from Aloe barbadensis leaves has been used for skin healing for over 5,000 years and is backed by modern clinical evidence for wound healing, burn treatment, and anti-inflammatory effects. Aloe gel contains over 75 active compounds including polysaccharides (acemannan), vitamins, minerals, enzymes, and amino acids. It hydrates, soothes, accelerates wound healing, and provides mild antibacterial protection.
Argan Oil
A luxury oil from the Argania spinosa tree native to Morocco, rich in oleic acid, linoleic acid, vitamin E, and squalene. Argan oil provides excellent moisturization, antioxidant protection, and anti-inflammatory effects. It has a favorable comedogenic rating for an oil and is absorbed relatively quickly. Used for face, hair, and body. Cold-pressed, unrefined oil retains the most bioactives.
Ceramides
Lipids that make up approximately 50% of the skin barrier by weight. Ceramides form the 'mortar' between skin cells (the 'bricks'), creating a waterproof barrier that prevents water loss and keeps irritants out. When the skin barrier is damaged — from over-exfoliation, harsh cleansers, retinoid use, or conditions like eczema — ceramide levels are depleted, and replenishing them is essential for recovery.
Gluconolactone (PHA)
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) — the gentlest class of chemical exfoliants. Gluconolactone has a very large molecular size, so it works extremely slowly on the skin surface without penetrating deeply. This makes it ideal for extremely sensitive skin, rosacea-prone skin, and those who cannot tolerate AHAs or BHAs. It also acts as a humectant, drawing moisture into the skin as it gently exfoliates.
Glycerin
The most effective and best-studied humectant in skincare. Glycerin (glycerol) is a small molecule that penetrates the stratum corneum readily, drawing water from the atmosphere and deeper skin layers to hydrate the outer skin. Present in virtually every moisturizer and many serums. Studies show it rivals or outperforms hyaluronic acid for hydration efficacy at a fraction of the cost.
Hemp Seed Oil
Cold-pressed from Cannabis sativa seeds, hemp seed oil has an ideal 3:1 ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids — the ratio considered optimal for skin health. It is rich in linoleic acid (which acne-prone skin is deficient in), gamma-linolenic acid (GLA, a potent anti-inflammatory), and natural vitamin E. Does not contain THC or CBD. One of the best oils for acne-prone, inflamed, or eczema-prone skin.
Hyaluronic Acid
The most popular hydrating ingredient in skincare. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan naturally produced by the body that can hold up to 1,000x its weight in water. In skincare, different molecular weights serve different functions: high molecular weight HA sits on the skin surface forming a moisture barrier, while low molecular weight HA penetrates deeper layers for plumping hydration.
Jojoba Oil
Technically a liquid wax ester (not a true oil) derived from Simmondsia chinensis seeds. Jojoba oil has a composition remarkably similar to human sebum — approximately 97% wax esters, which closely mimic the skin's natural oils. This makes it one of the most skin-compatible oils available. It provides emollient moisture, regulates sebum production, and has anti-inflammatory properties. Suitable for all skin types including oily and acne-prone.
Lactic Acid
A gentle AHA derived from milk that provides chemical exfoliation plus hydration — a unique dual benefit. Lactic acid has a larger molecular size than glycolic acid, so it penetrates more slowly and causes less irritation, making it ideal for sensitive skin and AHA beginners. It also has humectant properties, drawing moisture into the skin as it exfoliates.
Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5)
The provitamin form of vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid) that provides deep hydration, barrier repair, and wound healing support. When applied to skin, panthenol is converted to pantothenic acid, which is a component of coenzyme A — essential for fatty acid synthesis and skin barrier function. It is one of the most common ingredients in moisturizers and healing creams, and is the active ingredient in products like Bepanthen/Bepanthol.
Panthenol (Provitamin B5)
The provitamin form of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5) that deeply penetrates the skin and converts to pantothenic acid upon absorption. It is one of the most effective and gentle hydrating and wound-healing ingredients available. Panthenol attracts and holds water, stimulates skin barrier repair, promotes wound healing, and has anti-inflammatory properties. Found in almost every well-formulated moisturizer and lip balm.
Petrolatum (Vaseline)
The most effective occlusive ingredient available — petrolatum reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by 99%. Despite misconceptions, it does not clog pores and does not prevent skin from 'breathing.' Dermatologists recommend it universally for barrier repair, wound healing, and locking in moisture. It is the standard against which all other moisturizing ingredients are measured.
Rosehip Seed Oil
Cold-pressed from the seeds of Rosa canina, rosehip oil is rich in linoleic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, and trans-retinoic acid (a natural form of tretinoin). This makes it one of the few plant oils with genuine anti-aging activity — the natural tretinoin content promotes cell turnover and collagen synthesis. It is also high in antioxidants and is used for scars, hyperpigmentation, and fine lines.
Snail Mucin
Snail secretion filtrate — the mucus produced by Cryptomphalus aspersa snails — has become a star ingredient in Korean skincare. It naturally contains hyaluronic acid, glycoproteins, proteoglycans, antimicrobial peptides, copper peptides, and allantoin. This complex mixture provides hydration, wound healing, and anti-aging benefits. The COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence popularized the ingredient globally.
Snail Mucin
A complex secretion from Cryptomphalus aspersa snails containing glycoproteins, hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid, zinc, copper, allantoin, and antimicrobial peptides. This unique combination provides hydration, mild exfoliation, wound healing, and anti-inflammatory effects in a single ingredient. A cornerstone of Korean skincare, snail mucin has clinical evidence for improving skin texture, fine lines, and acne scars.
Squalane
A lightweight, non-comedogenic emollient oil derived from squalene — a lipid naturally produced by human sebaceous glands. Squalane (the hydrogenated, stable form) mimics the skin's natural oils, making it an excellent moisturizer that rarely causes breakouts. It softens skin, reduces water loss, and has antioxidant properties. Increasingly sourced from sugarcane and olives rather than shark liver.
Squalane
The hydrogenated (stable) form of squalene, a lipid that constitutes approximately 12% of human sebum. Squalane is one of the most universally compatible facial oils — lightweight, non-comedogenic, fast-absorbing, and biocompatible with all skin types. It provides emollient moisture, supports the skin barrier, and has antioxidant properties. Modern squalane is typically derived from sugarcane or olives (not shark liver).
Urea
A natural component of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) that serves as both a humectant and a keratolytic depending on concentration. At low concentrations (2-10%), urea hydrates by drawing water into the stratum corneum. At higher concentrations (20-40%), it breaks down keratin protein, making it a powerful treatment for rough, thickened, or keratotic skin conditions like keratosis pilaris, calluses, and psoriasis.
Vitamin E (Tocopherol)
A fat-soluble antioxidant that protects cell membranes from oxidative damage. In skincare, vitamin E is most effective when combined with vitamin C — each regenerates the other, creating a sustained antioxidant defense. It also provides moisturizing and anti-inflammatory effects. Alpha-tocopherol is the most biologically active form. Found naturally in sebum, where it serves as the first line of antioxidant defense.