Anti-Aging Ingredients
27Anti-aging ingredients work through several mechanisms: stimulating collagen production, accelerating cell turnover, preventing collagen breakdown, and protecting against oxidative damage. Retinoids remain the gold standard with the most clinical evidence, while peptide complexes and growth factors offer gentler alternatives.
Adapalene
A third-generation synthetic retinoid originally developed for acne that has significant anti-aging benefits. Adapalene is more stable than tretinoin (resistant to light and oxygen degradation) and better tolerated because it selectively binds to RAR-beta and RAR-gamma receptors rather than all three subtypes. The 0.1% concentration became available OTC in 2016 (Differin), making it the most accessible prescription-strength retinoid.
Adapalene
A third-generation synthetic retinoid specifically designed for acne treatment. Unlike tretinoin, adapalene selectively binds RAR-beta and RAR-gamma receptors in the skin, providing potent comedolytic and anti-inflammatory effects with significantly less irritation. It is also more stable in light and with benzoyl peroxide. Differin (0.1%) became OTC in 2016 — the first retinoid available without prescription in the US.
Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-3)
Known as 'topical Botox,' Argireline is a peptide that reduces the appearance of expression lines by partially inhibiting the SNARE complex — the same mechanism targeted by botulinum toxin, but through topical application rather than injection. The effect is much milder than Botox (roughly 30% wrinkle reduction vs 80%+) but provides a non-invasive option for forehead lines, crow's feet, and frown lines.
Bakuchiol
A plant-derived compound from Psoralea corylifolia seeds that provides retinol-like benefits without retinoid chemistry. Bakuchiol does not bind to retinoic acid receptors — it achieves similar gene expression changes through a completely different mechanism, making it safe during pregnancy and for skin too sensitive for any retinoid. Clinical studies show comparable improvements in wrinkles and pigmentation to 0.5% retinol.
Bakuchiol
A plant-derived compound from Psoralea corylifolia seeds that has been clinically shown to provide retinol-like anti-aging effects without retinoid side effects. A 2019 British Journal of Dermatology study directly compared bakuchiol to retinol and found comparable improvement in fine lines, pigmentation, and photodamage — but with significantly less scaling and stinging. It is the most evidence-backed 'retinol alternative' for those who cannot tolerate retinoids.
Centella Asiatica
Also known as Cica, Gotu Kola, or Tiger Grass, Centella Asiatica is an herb used in traditional medicine for wound healing that has become one of the most popular soothing ingredients in Korean and global skincare. Its active compounds (madecassoside, asiaticoside, madecassic acid, asiatic acid) reduce inflammation, stimulate collagen production, and accelerate wound healing. Essential for sensitive and compromised skin.
Centella Asiatica (Cica)
An herbaceous plant used for centuries in Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine, now one of the most popular soothing ingredients in K-beauty. Centella's triterpene compounds (madecassoside, asiaticoside, madecassic acid, asiatic acid) collectively called 'TECA' or 'cica' promote collagen synthesis, inhibit inflammation, and accelerate wound healing. It is the go-to ingredient for sensitive, irritated, acne-damaged, or post-procedure skin.
Coenzyme Q10 (Ubiquinone)
A naturally occurring antioxidant present in every cell that declines significantly with age. In the skin, CoQ10 protects against oxidative damage from UV radiation and pollution, supports cellular energy production in keratinocytes and fibroblasts, and reduces the depth of wrinkles. It is both an antioxidant and an energizer of the cellular processes that maintain skin health.
Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu)
GHK-Cu is a naturally occurring copper complex that declines with age (60% reduction by age 60). It is one of the most potent wound-healing and skin-remodeling signals known — it stimulates collagen, elastin, glycosaminoglycan synthesis, and new blood vessel growth while simultaneously breaking down excess scar tissue. Used in both anti-aging and post-procedure recovery.
EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor)
A signaling protein that stimulates cell growth, proliferation, and differentiation. In skincare, EGF promotes wound healing, skin renewal, and collagen production. Originally used in medical wound care and post-laser recovery, it has become popular in Korean skincare for anti-aging. It is one of the few growth factors with evidence for topical skincare efficacy.
Ferulic Acid
A plant-derived antioxidant found in rice bran, oats, and coffee beans that dramatically enhances the stability and photoprotective effects of vitamins C and E. The landmark 2005 study by Pinnell et al. showed that adding 0.5% ferulic acid to a vitamin C + E formulation doubled the photoprotection from SPF 4 to SPF 8 equivalent and improved the stability of vitamin C by 8x. This is why the 'CEF' combination is the most popular antioxidant serum format.
Glycolic Acid
The smallest and most penetrating alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Derived from sugarcane, glycolic acid exfoliates by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells on the surface, revealing smoother, brighter skin underneath. It is the most studied AHA with robust evidence for improving texture, fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and overall skin radiance. The gold standard chemical exfoliant.
Green Tea Extract (EGCG)
Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) is the primary polyphenol in green tea and one of the most potent topical antioxidants. It has been shown to reduce UV damage, decrease sebum production, reduce inflammation, and inhibit the enzymes that break down collagen and elastin. Green tea extract is one of the few antioxidants with evidence for both topical and oral skin benefits.
Hyaluronic Acid
The most popular hydrating ingredient in skincare. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan naturally produced by the body that can hold up to 1,000x its weight in water. In skincare, different molecular weights serve different functions: high molecular weight HA sits on the skin surface forming a moisture barrier, while low molecular weight HA penetrates deeper layers for plumping hydration.
Madecassoside
A purified triterpene glycoside from Centella asiatica that is the primary anti-inflammatory and wound-healing compound in the 'cica' family. While Centella asiatica extracts contain a mix of four triterpenes, isolated madecassoside provides the most potent soothing and barrier-repair effects. It is particularly effective for post-procedure recovery, sensitive skin, and skin exposed to environmental stressors like pollution and UV.
Matrixyl (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4)
One of the most studied anti-aging peptides. Matrixyl is a signal peptide that mimics collagen fragments (matrikines), tricking fibroblasts into thinking collagen has been broken down and needs to be replaced. This stimulates new collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid production. Clinical studies show visible wrinkle reduction comparable to retinol but without any irritation.
Niacinamide
A true multitasker — niacinamide (vitamin B3) addresses almost every skin concern simultaneously. It strengthens the skin barrier by boosting ceramide production, reduces hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanosome transfer, controls sebum production, minimizes pore appearance, reduces redness, and has anti-aging benefits. One of the most versatile and well-tolerated actives in skincare.
Resveratrol
A polyphenol antioxidant found in grape skins, red wine, and Japanese knotweed. Resveratrol activates sirtuins — the same 'longevity genes' activated by caloric restriction — in skin cells. It has strong anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, and emerging research shows it can prevent UV-induced skin damage and support collagen production. Most effective when combined with other antioxidants.
Retinaldehyde
The immediate precursor to retinoic acid, sitting between retinol and tretinoin in both potency and the conversion chain. Retinaldehyde requires only one enzymatic step to become active (vs two for retinol), making it significantly more effective than retinol while remaining available OTC. It also has direct antibacterial activity against C. acnes — unique among retinoids.
Retinol
The most popular over-the-counter retinoid. Retinol must be converted by skin enzymes into retinaldehyde, then into retinoic acid (tretinoin) to become active. This multi-step conversion means retinol is roughly 10-20x less potent than prescription tretinoin, but also significantly less irritating — making it the entry point for retinoid beginners.
Retinyl Palmitate
The gentlest and most stable retinoid, formed by combining retinol with palmitic acid. Retinyl palmitate requires three enzymatic conversions to become active retinoic acid, making it the least potent but also the least irritating retinoid. Commonly found in drugstore moisturizers and eye creams as a gentle anti-aging ingredient. Best for those who cannot tolerate any other retinoid.
Rosehip Seed Oil
Cold-pressed from the seeds of Rosa canina, rosehip oil is rich in linoleic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, and trans-retinoic acid (a natural form of tretinoin). This makes it one of the few plant oils with genuine anti-aging activity — the natural tretinoin content promotes cell turnover and collagen synthesis. It is also high in antioxidants and is used for scars, hyperpigmentation, and fine lines.
Snail Mucin
Snail secretion filtrate — the mucus produced by Cryptomphalus aspersa snails — has become a star ingredient in Korean skincare. It naturally contains hyaluronic acid, glycoproteins, proteoglycans, antimicrobial peptides, copper peptides, and allantoin. This complex mixture provides hydration, wound healing, and anti-aging benefits. The COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence popularized the ingredient globally.
Snail Mucin
A complex secretion from Cryptomphalus aspersa snails containing glycoproteins, hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid, zinc, copper, allantoin, and antimicrobial peptides. This unique combination provides hydration, mild exfoliation, wound healing, and anti-inflammatory effects in a single ingredient. A cornerstone of Korean skincare, snail mucin has clinical evidence for improving skin texture, fine lines, and acne scars.
Tretinoin
The gold standard anti-aging ingredient with the most clinical evidence of any topical. Tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid) is the active form of vitamin A that directly binds to retinoic acid receptors in skin cells. It accelerates cell turnover, stimulates collagen synthesis, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, fades hyperpigmentation, and improves skin texture. Prescription-only in most countries.
Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid)
The most potent topical antioxidant with strong clinical evidence for brightening, anti-aging, and photoprotection. L-Ascorbic Acid is the pure, active form that directly neutralizes free radicals, inhibits melanin production, and stimulates collagen synthesis. The challenge is formulation — it is notoriously unstable and must be at low pH (2.5-3.5) for skin penetration, which can cause irritation.
Vitamin K
A fat-soluble vitamin that supports blood clotting and blood vessel integrity. In skincare, vitamin K is primarily used for dark circles under the eyes (caused by visible blood vessels), bruising, spider veins, and post-procedure redness. It strengthens capillary walls and supports the reabsorption of blood that has leaked from damaged vessels. Often combined with retinol and vitamin C in eye creams.