AllantoinvsArgan Oil

Allantoin (5-ureidohydantoin) stimulates cell proliferation and tissue regeneration by promoting fibroblast activity, keratinocyte proliferation, and extracellular matrix synthesis including collagen and glycosaminoglycans. It acts as a mild keratolytic by promoting the natural desquamation process—loosening corneocyte adhesion and facilitating shedding—without the irritation, pH disruption, or barrier compromise associated with alpha- or beta-hydroxy acids. Allantoin has anti-inflammatory properties through modulation of prostaglandin synthesis (inhibiting COX-2 and reducing PGE2) and may downregulate pro-inflammatory cytokines. Its moisturizing effect comes from increasing the water-binding capacity of the extracellular matrix and stratum corneum; it is highly soluble and forms hydrogen bonds with water. Allantoin also promotes wound epithelialization. Its safety profile—non-irritating, non-sensitizing, non-comedogenic—makes it suitable for compromised skin, post-procedure care, and infant formulations.

Oleic acid (43-49%) and linoleic acid (29-36%) provide emollient and barrier-repair effects. Linoleic acid is component of ceramide 1 (acylceramide); acne-prone skin has been shown to have 50% less in sebum — topical supplementation may normalize follicular linoleate levels and reduce comedone formation. Oleic acid enhances penetration of other actives but can disrupt barrier in excess. Vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol) at 600-900 mg/kg provides antioxidant protection against lipid peroxidation. Squalene (6-8%) mimics skin's natural sebum composition. Polyphenols (ferulic acid, vanillic acid) provide additional antioxidant effects and may inhibit tyrosinase. Fatty acid profile supports lamellar body formation and ceramide synthesis in keratinocytes. Comedogenic rating 0-2. Cold-pressed oil retains tocopherols and polyphenols lost in refined versions.