AllantoinvsLicorice Root Extract

Allantoin (5-ureidohydantoin) stimulates cell proliferation and tissue regeneration by promoting fibroblast activity, keratinocyte proliferation, and extracellular matrix synthesis including collagen and glycosaminoglycans. It acts as a mild keratolytic by promoting the natural desquamation process—loosening corneocyte adhesion and facilitating shedding—without the irritation, pH disruption, or barrier compromise associated with alpha- or beta-hydroxy acids. Allantoin has anti-inflammatory properties through modulation of prostaglandin synthesis (inhibiting COX-2 and reducing PGE2) and may downregulate pro-inflammatory cytokines. Its moisturizing effect comes from increasing the water-binding capacity of the extracellular matrix and stratum corneum; it is highly soluble and forms hydrogen bonds with water. Allantoin also promotes wound epithelialization. Its safety profile—non-irritating, non-sensitizing, non-comedogenic—makes it suitable for compromised skin, post-procedure care, and infant formulations.

Glabridin competitively inhibits tyrosinase by binding copper active site (CuA, CuB), blocking tyrosine to L-DOPA hydroxylation and DOPA to dopaquinone oxidation. Also inhibits tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1). Liquiritin disperses existing melanin via melanosome transfer inhibition and autophagy pathway upregulation in keratinocytes. Glycyrrhizin inhibits COX-2 and 5-lipoxygenase, reducing prostaglandin and leukotriene production. Multi-mechanism brightening: tyrosinase inhibition, melanin dispersal, anti-inflammation. Unlike hydroquinone, no melanocyte cytotoxicity — suitable for long-term use and all skin tones. Glabridin has free radical scavenging antioxidant activity. Glycyrrhizin's 11-beta-HSD inhibition has minimal systemic effect with topical use.