AllantoinvsSqualane

Allantoin (5-ureidohydantoin) stimulates cell proliferation and tissue regeneration by promoting fibroblast activity, keratinocyte proliferation, and extracellular matrix synthesis including collagen and glycosaminoglycans. It acts as a mild keratolytic by promoting the natural desquamation process—loosening corneocyte adhesion and facilitating shedding—without the irritation, pH disruption, or barrier compromise associated with alpha- or beta-hydroxy acids. Allantoin has anti-inflammatory properties through modulation of prostaglandin synthesis (inhibiting COX-2 and reducing PGE2) and may downregulate pro-inflammatory cytokines. Its moisturizing effect comes from increasing the water-binding capacity of the extracellular matrix and stratum corneum; it is highly soluble and forms hydrogen bonds with water. Allantoin also promotes wound epithelialization. Its safety profile—non-irritating, non-sensitizing, non-comedogenic—makes it suitable for compromised skin, post-procedure care, and infant formulations.

Squalane is the fully hydrogenated form of squalene—a C30 isoprenoid hydrocarbon. As a saturated branched-chain hydrocarbon, squalane forms a non-occlusive emollient film that fills intercellular lipid spaces and reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by approximately 20-30%. Squalene comprises ~12% of human sebum (synthesized via mevalonate pathway); squalane's structural similarity confers high biocompatibility and minimal comedogenic potential. Hydrogenation of squalene's six double bonds eliminates oxidative susceptibility—squalene peroxidizes with UV exposure while squalane remains stable. Squalane penetrates the stratum corneum and may support barrier lipid organization. Plant-derived squalane (sugarcane, olive) is structurally identical.