Quick Comparison
| Argan Oil | Lactic Acid | |
|---|---|---|
| Typical Concentration | Apply 2-4 drops to damp or dry skin after water-based products. Can be used morning and night. For hair: apply to damp ends. Cold-pressed, cosmetic-grade oil preferred over culinary grade (which is roasted and has different properties). | Concentrations: 5-12% for daily use. 30-50% for professional peels. Start with 5% every other night. The Ordinary offers 5% (gentle) and 10% (moderate) options. Always use SPF during the day. |
| Application | Topical (pure oil or in formulations). Apply as final step of skincare or mixed with moisturizer. | Topical (serum, peel, toner). Apply to dry skin at night. Follow with moisturizer. |
| Research Papers | 10 papers | 10 papers |
| Categories |
Mechanism of Action
Argan Oil
Oleic acid (43-49%) and linoleic acid (29-36%) provide emollient and barrier-repair effects. Linoleic acid is component of ceramide 1 (acylceramide); acne-prone skin has been shown to have 50% less in sebum — topical supplementation may normalize follicular linoleate levels and reduce comedone formation. Oleic acid enhances penetration of other actives but can disrupt barrier in excess. Vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol) at 600-900 mg/kg provides antioxidant protection against lipid peroxidation. Squalene (6-8%) mimics skin's natural sebum composition. Polyphenols (ferulic acid, vanillic acid) provide additional antioxidant effects and may inhibit tyrosinase. Fatty acid profile supports lamellar body formation and ceramide synthesis in keratinocytes. Comedogenic rating 0-2. Cold-pressed oil retains tocopherols and polyphenols lost in refined versions.
Lactic Acid
Lactic acid (90 Da, larger than glycolic acid) exfoliates via the standard AHA mechanism: chelating calcium at corneodesmosomes and promoting desquamation through protease activation. Unlike glycolic acid, lactic acid is a natural component of the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) and functions as a humectant, drawing water into the stratum corneum through hygroscopic binding. It inhibits tyrosinase enzyme activity in melanocytes, providing mild brightening. At higher concentrations (10%+), lactic acid upregulates serine palmitoyltransferase and glucosylceramide synthase in keratinocytes, stimulating ceramide synthesis and improving barrier lipid composition. It also enhances filaggrin proteolysis to NMF components. This dual action—exfoliation plus barrier support—makes it the most moisturizing AHA and clinically useful for dry, sensitive, or barrier-compromised skin.
Risks & Safety
Argan Oil
Common
May cause breakouts in some acne-prone individuals despite relatively low comedogenic rating.
Serious
None.
Rare
Allergic reaction (tree nut allergy cross-reactivity is very rare but possible).
Lactic Acid
Common
Mild stinging, redness — less than glycolic acid at equivalent concentrations. Sun sensitivity.
Serious
None at cosmetic concentrations.
Rare
Over-exfoliation with daily high-concentration use.
Full Profiles
Argan Oil →
A luxury oil from the Argania spinosa tree native to Morocco, rich in oleic acid, linoleic acid, vitamin E, and squalene. Argan oil provides excellent moisturization, antioxidant protection, and anti-inflammatory effects. It has a favorable comedogenic rating for an oil and is absorbed relatively quickly. Used for face, hair, and body. Cold-pressed, unrefined oil retains the most bioactives.
Lactic Acid →
A gentle AHA derived from milk that provides chemical exfoliation plus hydration — a unique dual benefit. Lactic acid has a larger molecular size than glycolic acid, so it penetrates more slowly and causes less irritation, making it ideal for sensitive skin and AHA beginners. It also has humectant properties, drawing moisture into the skin as it exfoliates.