Quick Comparison
| Argan Oil | Urea | |
|---|---|---|
| Typical Concentration | Apply 2-4 drops to damp or dry skin after water-based products. Can be used morning and night. For hair: apply to damp ends. Cold-pressed, cosmetic-grade oil preferred over culinary grade (which is roasted and has different properties). | Moisturizing: 2-10%. Mild exfoliation: 10-20%. Strong keratolytic: 20-40%. For face: stay at 5-10%. For body rough patches: 10-20%. For calluses/severely rough skin: 40%. Apply to damp skin and seal with cream. |
| Application | Topical (pure oil or in formulations). Apply as final step of skincare or mixed with moisturizer. | Topical (cream, lotion, gel). Apply to damp skin. Eucerin and CeraVe have well-known urea-containing lines. |
| Research Papers | 10 papers | 10 papers |
| Categories |
Mechanism of Action
Argan Oil
Oleic acid (43-49%) and linoleic acid (29-36%) provide emollient and barrier-repair effects. Linoleic acid is component of ceramide 1 (acylceramide); acne-prone skin has been shown to have 50% less in sebum — topical supplementation may normalize follicular linoleate levels and reduce comedone formation. Oleic acid enhances penetration of other actives but can disrupt barrier in excess. Vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol) at 600-900 mg/kg provides antioxidant protection against lipid peroxidation. Squalene (6-8%) mimics skin's natural sebum composition. Polyphenols (ferulic acid, vanillic acid) provide additional antioxidant effects and may inhibit tyrosinase. Fatty acid profile supports lamellar body formation and ceramide synthesis in keratinocytes. Comedogenic rating 0-2. Cold-pressed oil retains tocopherols and polyphenols lost in refined versions.
Urea
At low concentrations (<10%), urea acts as a humectant — small molecule (60 Da) absorbing into stratum corneum, drawing water via hydrogen bonding to carbonyl and amine groups. Part of endogenous NMF (filaggrin degradation products with amino acids, lactate), highly biocompatible. Integrates into corneocyte envelope, supports aquaporin-3 water transport. At higher concentrations (>10%), denatures keratin (K1, K10) by disrupting hydrogen bonds in alpha-helical structure and disulfide bridges in cornified envelope, causing corneodesmosome degradation and desquamation. Keratolytic via direct protein denaturation, not enzymatic. Dual mechanism — humectant at low dose, keratolytic at high — versatile for hydration and hyperkeratotic conditions (psoriasis, keratosis pilaris).
Risks & Safety
Argan Oil
Common
May cause breakouts in some acne-prone individuals despite relatively low comedogenic rating.
Serious
None.
Rare
Allergic reaction (tree nut allergy cross-reactivity is very rare but possible).
Urea
Common
Stinging on broken or irritated skin (more likely at higher concentrations).
Serious
None.
Rare
Contact dermatitis (uncommon).
Full Profiles
Argan Oil →
A luxury oil from the Argania spinosa tree native to Morocco, rich in oleic acid, linoleic acid, vitamin E, and squalene. Argan oil provides excellent moisturization, antioxidant protection, and anti-inflammatory effects. It has a favorable comedogenic rating for an oil and is absorbed relatively quickly. Used for face, hair, and body. Cold-pressed, unrefined oil retains the most bioactives.
Urea →
A natural component of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) that serves as both a humectant and a keratolytic depending on concentration. At low concentrations (2-10%), urea hydrates by drawing water into the stratum corneum. At higher concentrations (20-40%), it breaks down keratin protein, making it a powerful treatment for rough, thickened, or keratotic skin conditions like keratosis pilaris, calluses, and psoriasis.