Quick Comparison

Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-3)Centella Asiatica
Typical ConcentrationTypically used at 5-10% concentration. Apply twice daily to expression line areas (forehead, around eyes, between brows). Effects visible after 2-4 weeks. Must be used continuously — effects reverse when stopped.Used in various forms: full extract, TECA (Titrated Extract of Centella Asiatica — a standardized blend of the four key actives), or individual compounds. Concentrations vary widely (0.1-5% of active compounds). Apply morning and/or night. Safe for daily use on all skin types.
ApplicationTopical (serum, cream). Water-soluble. Apply directly to expression line areas.Topical (serum, cream, toner, mask). TECA or pure centella extract preferred over whole plant extract for consistency.
Research Papers10 papers10 papers
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Mechanism of Action

Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-3)

Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-3) mimics the C-terminal region of SNAP-25, a core SNARE complex component. The SNARE complex (SNAP-25, syntaxin, synaptobrevin) mediates vesicle fusion at the neuromuscular junction for acetylcholine release. Argireline competes with SNAP-25 for syntaxin binding, partially disrupting SNARE assembly and reducing neurotransmitter exocytosis. This decreases acetylcholine release and attenuates facial muscle contraction intensity. The effect is dose-dependent, localized, and reversible—unlike botulinum toxin's enzymatic cleavage of SNAP-25. Clinical studies show ~30% wrinkle reduction versus 80%+ with injectable neurotoxins. Provides non-invasive expression line softening.

Centella Asiatica

The four key triterpenoid saponins—madecassoside, asiaticoside, madecassic acid, and asiatic acid—exert distinct but complementary mechanisms. Madecassoside and asiaticoside are anti-inflammatory: they inhibit NF-κB nuclear translocation and IκB kinase activity, reducing TNF-α, IL-6, and IL-1β production in keratinocytes and dermal cells. Madecassic acid and asiatic acid (the aglycone forms) stimulate type I and III collagen synthesis in fibroblasts by upregulating collagen gene expression and procollagen production. All four compounds promote wound healing by stimulating angiogenesis via VEGF (vascular endothelial growth factor) upregulation, fibroblast proliferation and migration, and extracellular matrix remodeling. Centella extracts also increase superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase activity in skin cells, enhancing endogenous antioxidant defense. The triterpenes may modulate TGF-β and Smad signaling. TECA (Titrated Extract of Centella Asiatica) standardizes these actives for consistent clinical efficacy.

Risks & Safety

Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-3)

Common

Very well-tolerated. Occasional mild tingling.

Serious

None documented.

Rare

Allergic reaction. At very high concentrations, some users report a slight 'droopy' feeling in the treated area.

Centella Asiatica

Common

Very well-tolerated. Occasionally mild tingling.

Serious

None documented.

Rare

Allergic contact dermatitis (uncommon). Purified extracts are less likely to cause reactions than crude extracts.

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