Quick Comparison
| Bakuchiol | Retinyl Palmitate | |
|---|---|---|
| Typical Concentration | Concentrations: 0.5%-2%. Can be used morning and/or night (not photosensitizing like retinoids). Apply after cleansing. Can be combined with retinoids for enhanced effects. Safe to use without SPF specifically for this ingredient, though daily SPF is always recommended. | Concentrations: 0.1-1%. Can often be used daily without irritation. Found in many moisturizers and eye creams. Minimal retinization period compared to stronger retinoids. |
| Application | Topical (serum, oil, cream). Stable in formulation. Not photosensitizing. | Topical (cream, lotion, eye cream). Very stable in formulation. Can be used morning or night. |
| Research Papers | 10 papers | 10 papers |
| Categories |
Mechanism of Action
Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol (meroterpene from Psoralea corylifolia) achieves retinol-like effects through RAR/RXR-independent pathways. It upregulates collagen I and III in fibroblasts via TGF-beta/Smad signaling and possibly ER-beta cross-talk. Bakuchiol downregulates MMP-1, preserving dermal collagen. It accelerates keratinocyte differentiation and stratum corneum turnover through distinct pathways. Direct antioxidant activity scavenges ROS and inhibits lipid peroxidation. Anti-inflammatory effects may involve NF-kappaB modulation. Clinical studies show comparable wrinkle reduction to 0.5% retinol; combination with retinol shows synergy. Safe during pregnancy—does not activate retinoic acid receptors.
Retinyl Palmitate
Retinyl palmitate is cleaved by cutaneous esterases (including retinyl ester hydrolase) to release retinol, which then undergoes oxidation by retinol dehydrogenase to retinaldehyde, followed by RALDH conversion to retinoic acid. The three-step enzymatic cascade means very little active retinoic acid reaches nuclear RAR receptors at any given time, explaining the low potency and minimal retinization. The palmitate ester bond provides exceptional stability — resistant to UV-induced isomerization and oxidative degradation that affects retinol. This slow-release profile makes it suitable for sensitive skin and daytime use. The limited retinoic acid flux still provides mild stimulation of collagen type I synthesis and epidermal turnover, though clinical effects are subtle compared to stronger retinoids.
Risks & Safety
Bakuchiol
Common
Very few — bakuchiol is exceptionally well-tolerated. Mild tingling in some users initially.
Serious
None documented. Safe during pregnancy.
Rare
Allergic reaction (rare plant allergy).
Retinyl Palmitate
Common
Very mild — occasional dryness.
Serious
Theoretical pregnancy concern (retinoid class), though risk is very low.
Rare
Mild irritation in very sensitive skin.
Full Profiles
Bakuchiol →
A plant-derived compound from Psoralea corylifolia seeds that provides retinol-like benefits without retinoid chemistry. Bakuchiol does not bind to retinoic acid receptors — it achieves similar gene expression changes through a completely different mechanism, making it safe during pregnancy and for skin too sensitive for any retinoid. Clinical studies show comparable improvements in wrinkles and pigmentation to 0.5% retinol.
Retinyl Palmitate →
The gentlest and most stable retinoid, formed by combining retinol with palmitic acid. Retinyl palmitate requires three enzymatic conversions to become active retinoic acid, making it the least potent but also the least irritating retinoid. Commonly found in drugstore moisturizers and eye creams as a gentle anti-aging ingredient. Best for those who cannot tolerate any other retinoid.